Apistogramma borellii is a colorful dwarf cichlid from South America with a peaceful temperament, well-suited for community tanks of 50 liters or more.
Overview
Apistogramma borellii is a small dwarf cichlid from the Cichlidae family, native to slow-moving waters of South America — the Paraguay and Parana river basins in Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay. In the aquarium hobby, this species is also known as the "Umbrella Cichlid" due to the male's distinctive fan-shaped dorsal fin.
Adults reach 5–7 cm in length and live for 4–6 years with proper care. Sexual dimorphism is pronounced: males are larger, with elongated fins and a striking blue-yellow coloration with iridescent hues, while females are smaller, more modestly colored in predominantly yellow tones, and develop an intense yellow coloration during spawning.
Among other apistogrammas, such as Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid or Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid, A. borellii stands out for its particularly calm disposition, making it an excellent choice for beginners venturing into the world of dwarf cichlids.
Tank Requirements
A pair of Apistogramma borellii requires a tank of at least 50 liters. If you plan to keep a group of one male and several females, or a community tank with other species, an 80-liter or larger tank is preferable.
Optimal water parameters:
- Temperature: 22–28 °C
- pH: 5.0–7.5
- Hardness (GH): 5–12
In the wild, these fish inhabit areas among submerged roots and leaf litter, so it's important to recreate a similar environment in the aquarium. Use soft sandy substrate, driftwood, and scattered rocks to create hiding spots. Live plants — anubias, cryptocorynes, mosses — not only serve as shelter but also help maintain soft, slightly acidic water. Adding dried oak or Indian almond leaves will tint the water a natural amber shade and provide beneficial tannins.
Lighting should be subdued — bright light causes stress and makes these fish retreat into hiding. Water flow should be gentle to moderate.
Feeding and Diet
Apistogramma borellii is an omnivorous species with a preference for animal-based foods. In the wild, they feed on small invertebrates, insect larvae, and microorganisms.
In the aquarium, the base diet should consist of high-quality small cichlid pellets or flakes. However, to maintain health and vibrant coloration, it is essential to regularly offer live and frozen foods:
- Brine shrimp — an excellent staple live food
- Daphnia — beneficial for digestion
- Bloodworms — offer 1–2 times per week as a treat
- Cyclops — ideal due to their small size
Feed small portions twice a day. Borelli's cichlids feed primarily near the bottom and in the middle water column, so ensure the food sinks to their level. A weekly fasting day is beneficial.
Care and Maintenance
Although the care level for A. borellii is considered relatively low, these fish require stable conditions. Sudden fluctuations in water parameters are the primary source of stress and disease.
Key care recommendations:
- Water changes: 20–25% weekly, using conditioned water with matching parameters
- Filtration: moderate, without strong current — a sponge filter or internal filter with adjustable flow works well
- Temperature: maintain stable temperature, avoiding sudden shifts
- Substrate: regularly vacuum the bottom, especially in feeding areas
Pay attention to the fish's behavior: if your borelli's are constantly hiding, losing color, or refusing food, this signals water quality issues or stress from tankmates. Healthy specimens are active during the day, curious, and vibrantly colored.
Compatibility
Apistogramma borellii is one of the most peaceful dwarf cichlids, making it an ideal candidate for a community tank. The best tankmates are small, calm fish that inhabit the upper and middle water layers:
- Neon Tetra and Cardinal Tetra — classic companions for apistogrammas
- Ember Tetra — a peaceful nano tetra
- Dwarf Pencilfish — a calm upper-level swimmer
- Panda Corydoras and Pygmy Corydoras — peaceful bottom dwellers
- Otocinclus — a useful algae eater
Avoid large, aggressive, or overly active fish. It is not recommended to keep two males of A. borellii in a small tank, as this will lead to conflicts. The optimal arrangement is one male with 2–3 females.
Breeding
Breeding Apistogramma borellii in a home aquarium is quite achievable and accessible even for less experienced aquarists, though some preparation is required.
To stimulate spawning, slightly raise the temperature (to 26–27 °C), reduce water hardness, and provide plenty of hiding spots — coconut shells, ceramic tubes, or small rock caves work well. The female selects a shelter and deposits 40–80 eggs on the cave ceiling.
After spawning, the female takes full responsibility for the clutch: she fans the eggs, removes unfertilized ones, and aggressively guards the nest, including from the male. It is best not to disturb the female during this period.
The larvae hatch in 2–3 days, and the fry become free-swimming approximately one week later. First foods should include artemia nauplii and infusoria. The female continues to guard her offspring for several more weeks, leading the school of fry around the tank in search of food. This is one of the most fascinating spectacles in the aquarium hobby.